A personal encounter with the people and places of the American Southwest

Sunday, September 13, 2015

Rain in a Dry Country

Uncompahgre Plateau, Colorado

My Journeys with Myla, pt. 1 


This begins a sequence of blog entries concerning my travels with Myla, a superb dog of uncertain breed (we think she’s half rat terrier and half dachshund) who was found barely surviving on the streets of Grand Junction and rescued by a group called Grand Rivers Humane. We adopted her in the autumn of 2013, and she has been a beloved part of our family ever since. Though she is diminutive in size, she has all the spirit and heart of a great German Shepherd. These entries concerning my adventures with Myla will be interspersed with my regular regional explorations. 

Rain is a blessing in a dry country, and this summer, Colorado’s arid western border with Utah has received a double gift from the weather of cool nights and almost daily rainstorms. 

Recently I was hiking in one of the many canyons that grace the Uncompahgre Plateau and give it its distinctive and dynamic landscape. The trail, an old mining road from over half a century ago, begins on a sandstone slope that eases down to the canyon rim. Myla, hunting for lizards, lead me off the trail and towards one of the high cliffs that form a tight bend in the canyon. As I walked past the scattered juniper trees towards the rim, I heard a sound that at first I thought was the wind blowing through the canyon’s cottonwood trees. But when I reached the rim with Myla, I realized with surprise and joy that the stream at the canyon’s base was not only running, but running strong. This is a stream that is almost always dry or nearly dry, especially in the summer, so this was an exciting moment.

Myla and I made our way quickly down the old mining road, which cuts through the canyon wall, and followed the stream. The water sang and laughed through its sandstone course, tumbling over drops and ledges, coursing through smooth half-oval passages carved over the many centuries. Myla would plunge into the water, emerge, shake herself dry, chase after lizards and a squirrel or two, and then plunge in again.

The climax of our journey was deep in the canyon where the stream plunged over Precambrian granite, carving a narrow waterfall that filled a basin which overflowed a dike formed from stone two and half billion years old – half way to the dawn of earthly time. Myla and I watched the water play on the rocks, until finally she grew restless and began to probe under great boulders for prey. I’ve only seen that waterfall run perhaps five or six times, so it was a delight to see it flowing in July, when usually the western Colorado earth cracks with 102 degree days under a burning sun.

That waterfall and the rain that caused it to run were true blessings indeed.

Sunday, July 12, 2015

The Barbara Waters Memorial


Taos, New Mexico

Barbara Waters, the fourth and final wife of Frank Waters, the godfather of Southwestern literature, passed away January 11th of this year. She was a fine writer and scholar in her own right, and as head of the Frank Waters Foundation, a vital force in the preservation of her husband’s literary and cultural legacy.

The memorial for Barbara Waters was held at the Millicent Rogers Museum in Taos and at the Frank Waters’ home in Arroyo Seco on June 27th. What follows is a short biography of Barbara Waters abridged from the Frank Waters Foundation website. (To read the entire biography, go to www.frankwaters.org/new_page_3.htm). After the bio, I have added the tribute to Barbara Waters I presented at the memorial – one of many made by her numerous friends.

Barbara Waters: Biography

Barbara Waters was born on September 26, 1929, in Oak Park, Illinois, and grew up in La Grange and Oswego, suburbs of Chicago. While raising her two sons –Terence and William Hayes – she attended Northwestern University and earned a bachelor’s degree in secondary education with an English major.

In 1968 she divorced her first husband and came to Taos, New Mexico, where she met Frank Waters in 1970.That same year she began dividing her time between Taos and Tucson, where she taught English at Canyon del Oro High School until 1985.

Barbara and Frank were married in 1979, the same year that she earned a master’s degree in journalism at the University of Arizona. In 1988 she earned another master’s degree in Counseling and Guidance and began therapy practices in Tucson and Taos. She organized the Frank Waters Foundation in 1993, two years before her husband’s death in 1995.

Barbara discontinued her psychotherapy practices in 1995 to write her memoir Celebrating the Coyote. Her work has appeared in Western American Literature, Chicago Tribune, Arizona Daily Star, and the Salt Journal. She also has essays in Frank Waters: Man and Mystic and in The Spirit That Wants Me and wrote a foreword for The Woman at Otowi Crossing, Frank Waters’ novel about the making of the atomic bomb. In addition to her writings, Barbara Waters was the president of the Frank Waters Foundation, a consultant for the Southern Arizona Friends of C.G. Jung, and a member of the Society of the Muse of the Southwest. 
 
She died January 11, 2015. 
 
Mountains near Arroyo Seco


Barbara Waters Tribute

It is an incredible honor to be asked to speak here at the memorial for Barbara Waters.

When I interviewed Frank Waters for Southwest Profile in June of 1989, there was a festival taking place in Taos, and the traffic crawled through town. I was coming up from Santa Fe, and as the minutes ticked by and the cars inched forward, it became clear that I was going to be quite late. So, a few blocks past the plaza, I pulled over and called Waters from a phone booth. (This was in the Dark Ages before cell phones.) When he answered the phone, he sounded very disappointed, which prompted me to apologize profusely for my lateness. He explained that my lateness wasn’t a problem; instead, he was concerned because Barbara was late returning from Tucson, and the phone rang, he had thought she was calling.

I finally arrived in Arroyo Seco almost an hour late, and we started the interview, which took a couple more hours. At the end, Waters was still clearly very concerned about Barbara, who still hadn’t arrived, and the last thing he said to me, after complaining about the lack of a bypass around Taos, was, “She should be here soon. I think I’ll throw together a little supper for her. I bet she’ll be hungry.”

At the time, I was impressed by Waters’ love and concern for his wife, and I thought she must be a very special person.

Twelve years later, when I met Barbara at the Robinson Jeffers conference at the Mabel Dodge Luhan house, I discovered that Barbara was indeed a great soul. Over the next decade, I visited her repeatedly while researching Frank Waters’ life, including an extended stay at their Arroyo Seco home, and I always found Barbara to be warm, compassionate, intelligent, most helpful, brave in adversity, and sharply honest.

The last time I saw her, my wife Brenda and I visited her in Arroyo Seco, and she was gracious as always, sitting in her armchair, a stack of books and journals on the coffee table in front of her; surrounded by the artwork of Fechin, Lady Brett, and Hopi artisans; the cool aspen-filtered light coming in through the east-facing windows.

I will miss those visits, as we will all deeply miss her presence in this world.

I would like to finish with a passage from the novel The Man Who Killed the Deer. Here, Frank Waters describes the Day of the Dead at Taos Pueblo:

The women kneeled down, lighted more candles, and from under their shawls took out wafer bread, loaves of long-bread, cornmeal baked in cornhusks, pans of panocha, even a cheap store sponge-cake to place on the sunken graves.

It was el Dia de los Muertos, and they had come with offerings for the dead. 

They who lie here were as alive as we are who have not forgotten. We too will lie here and will not be forgotten. Are we all alive, or all dead, in this unceasing file from one mystery to another, through this watery blue veil of November sky? Let no man say. Let him say only: I am the seed of the husk that lies here, my Corn Mother; and I am the seed of those husks which will follow after me; and this meal I now place here is the bond between us all; and may our Earth Mother, our Corn Mother, attest I have not forgotten.

Tuesday, June 9, 2015

A Message from the Frank Waters Foundation


Special Offer: For the month of June, 2015, John Nizalowski will donate to the Frank Waters Foundation all his royalties from the sale of Land of Cinnamon Sun: Essays on Family, Mythology, and the American West. So, during June, you can add this great book to your Southwestern collection and help out the Frank Waters Foundation at the same time. Irie Books, $12.99: Available through Amazon.com.,www.barnesandnoble.com, and through Ingram distributors from your local bookstore (price may vary).

From the back cover:

In Land of Cinnamon Sun, essayist John Nizalowski explores the western experience through the lenses of family, mythology, and the natural world. Here we find red rock canyons, ancient Pueblo Indian cities, and sublime natural bridges connected with the daily realities of contemporary life, a cosmology inspired by Mesoamerican legends, and the frontiers of modern physics. In the tradition of Frank Waters and Terry Tempest Williams, John Nizalowski has written a book that is more than a collection of essays; it is, as described by author Gerald Hausman, “a novel in verse disguised as prose.”

“John Nizalowski deploys through his writings a rhetoric of universals – the timeless, the boundless – in order to evoke in us a feeling of cosmos, not chaos.” – Alexander Blackburn, author of A Sunrise Brighter Still: the Visionary Novels of Frank Waters

“Nizalowski’s prose is pointed, gritty, unsparing in its detail and savagely honest….” – Rosemerry Wahtola Trommer, Telluride Magazine

Thursday, February 26, 2015

Journey to Tuzigoot


Clarkdale, Arizona


One of my favorite ancient sites in the American Southwest is Tuzigoot, a pueblo ruin located in Arizona’s Verde Valley. Resting atop a 120 foot limestone ridge, which provided the white stones used to construct the pueblo’s many rooms and multistory central tower, Tuzigoot stands against the sky, an outpost of time, a human landscape a thousand years old. 

Tuzigoot was originally settled by Hohokam farmers who migrated north from the present day Phoenix area and began farming corn and other crops in the Verde Valley’s rich soil. The Verde Valley also provided salt and other valuable minerals, making it a busy trading center. Around 1000 CE, the Hohokam built a few scattered stone structures on the ridge which would be the future site of Tuzigoot. This ridge was a natural fortress, and gave the Hohokam a wide view of the valley with its winding river, abundant cottonwood trees, and volcanic hills.


In the 12th century, bands of Sinagua from the north began to enter the valley and merged with the Hohokam inhabitants. The Sinagua, who originated on the southwestern frontier of the Anasazi cultural zone, added to the Hohokam houses, creating a many leveled pueblo bearing design influences from the great urban center of Chaco Canyon. Tuzigoot reached its climax in the 13th century, when large numbers of Sinagua left the Flagstaff area fleeing drought and the final, violent eruptions of the Sunset Crater volcano. At this time, the pueblo housed upwards to 500 people.

Perched on its hilltop, Tuzigoot and its high walls protected its dwellers from the 13th century conflicts brought on by drought and population stresses on the valley’s resources. After this time of troubles passed, the pueblo continued to be occupied for another century. But by the 1400’s Tuzigoot was abandoned for reasons that remain one of the mysteries of southwestern archeology. The people of Tuzigoot probably migrated to the northern Arizona highlands, where they joined the Hopi.

A team from the University of Arizona excavated Tuzigoot in the early 1930’s, and today one can wander through its numerous chambers and climb a wooden ladder to the top of its cubical tower, there to see out across the lands that were once verdant with the fields of the Hohokam and the Sinagua.



I wrote a poem after visiting Tuzigoot in 2012. The discovery that the Sinagua buried their dead in the deepest layers of the pueblo inspired the poem’s central imagery.


Tuzigoot

Underneath the white stone walls
that climb the hill to the summit,
the old pale bones of children rest.

My youngest daughter feels their
voices at her feet, her sister instead
remembers playing in the outer room,

the one that faces west and the long
Verde Valley. A whip snake flows
like water across the pueblo rubble

heading for the shade of a salt bush.
We three watch it vanish into the
shadow, a lost member of the family.